ST1100 40 Amp Alternator Upgrade "Stuff"

[optional items are in brackets]

John Oosterhuis, STOC 1058

REFERENCES:

BTW, one of the other things I send folks is Mark Frost's swingarm R&R post which I've also added some comments of my own. A lot of folks are pretty apprehensive about that part of the upgrade... I know I was and that piece helped me (and now others) a lot.

PARTS:

TOOLS:

LUBES, ETC:

MISC:

*ST1100 40 Amp Alternator Upgrade Parts:

 (using the Lewis Pin method)

Note: If you purchase a used alternator, be sure to get all the above parts with it. You will probably want to buy a new O-ring, listed above, plus another new O-ring (91304-MAJ-G41). The latter one isn't listed above because it comes as part of a new alternator assy.

**Fuse Block Parts

If you use the non-sealed Littelfuse fuse block and fuses:

NOTE: I didn't buy mine on-line. I just went to an auto parts store and looked at what they had in stock. If you can't find something that works, go ahead and use the Honda OEM parts' 'cause you know that they will work.

Note: other manufacturers' fuses may not fit the Littelfuse block.

If you use the splash resistant Littelfuse fuse block and fuses:

Note: I cannot find this in the catalog.

Note: The splash resistant Littelfuse block won't work with 10 gauge wire, so use 12 gauge instead.

If you use the OEM fuse box:

Notes: Shorten the 6X20 mounting bolts from the old VRR and use them in place of the 6X12 bolts in the list above. And pick up the 6X16 and 5X10 screws plus some lockwashers for them at your local hardware store to save a little cash. (Thanks, Rob Parker, for this approach).

***Rear Wheel R&R O-rings PNs:

****Driveshaft Joint Parts PNs [optional but recommended]:

COMMENTS

Note: The whole list of tools and parts came from my upgrade... everything I used. Well, except for the recently added driveshaft joint parts that Rob Parker pointed out when he was here for Jeff Schneider's upgrade. BTW, the old 'cap' on the end can just be knocked out and flipped if it shows wear from the nut in the bottom of the pinion cup (thanks, Rob).

I used all of the tools on this list except the bench vise... mine wasn't big enough. However, some folks may be able to get by without the bracketed items ('optional') ... like not replacing the oil filter and reusing the drained oil. Also, I only crimp but some folks may want to solder. I used my nice pry bar to get the alt shaft assy out, but a big screwdriver would work. As for the battery tender - my ST was apart for 14 days while I not only did the upgrade leisurely, but cleaned, cleaned, and cleaned some more (mostly Dempster 'concrete'); and also did some farkle wiring/rewiring. Anytime the GhOOST is parked the tender is plugged in...

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Last updated on February 8, 2014     © 2002-2014 M. E. Martin, all rights reserved.