A number of people have experienced intermittent operation of the ignition switch. Sometimes switching on and off numerous times can get things going, for a while anyway. Some have sprayed contact cleaner into the switch, and that helps for a bit longer. But it's better to clean out that old dried-up grease, polish the contacts, and reassemble the switch to achieve the confidence that you won't be let down on the road.

I cleaned my ignition switch contacts several years ago. But with my faulty memory, and the fact that I didn't take any pictures, I was at a loss to be of much help to someone with the switch problem. So I decided to do it again, this time taking photos to document the operation.

Warning: My bike is a 1991 model. I cannot say whether or not Honda changed the switch design for later models. So don't assume that your switch is identical to mine.

The first time I performed the operation in the driveway. I was adjusting my steering bearings, and had the handlebars with the fork top bridge laying on a towel protecting the top shelter. Seeing the three screws holding the black cap to the bottom of the ignition switch, I decided to open the switch and clean it out. So I removed the screws and CAREFULLY opened the electrical portion of the switch, hoping that I wouldn't lose any of the internal parts.

NOW for an important message: DO NOT DO WHAT I DID. If something goes SPROING -- TINK -- TINK -- TINK -- TINK -- and you lose one of the little copper contacts or one of the little springs, you're going to be very sad or really pi$$ed!. Remove the two Torx head bolts attaching the ignition switch assembly to the underside of the fork top bridge. Then locate the rectangular white plastic multi-pin connector at the end of the wiring harness from the ignition switch and disconnect it from the bike. The harness is 16 inches or so long, and the connector will be found under the air cleaner housing, just behind the steering head. You'll have to remove a plastic air deflector just inboard of the radiator cap, and open a plastic wire clamp in the same area in order to free the switch harness from the bike. Then take the switch somewhere besides the driveway in order to disassemble it. Work on a clean table with a towel or some such on it to catch any part that may come falling out. Maybe you want to do the work with the switch in a box or tub for more insurance. Don't say I didn't warn you. Luckily, nothing bad happened in my case. But I didn't risk disaster a second time!

Inside the switch are a number of contacts. Some rotate with the key, and some are stationary, fixed in the portion of the switch that is attached to the wiring harness. The moving contacts are spring loaded, and there is some sort of grease inside the area. I think the problems that arise with the switch are primarily caused by the grease drying up over time.

So the object is to clean out all the old grease with a solvent like denatured alcohol or contact cleaner or WD-40, apply some silicone grease, and reassemble the switch. (I wouldn't recommend a harsh solvent like carb choke cleaner or brake cleaner, because of their unknown effect on the plastic parts.) You should use a Scotch-Brite pad to polish the contact surfaces as well.

I've created a photo album illustrating the operation. Here's the album. Click on the first thumbnail, and you'll find captioning to go along with the photo. On the left are navigation buttons.

I hope this information is helpful to you.

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Last updated on January 28, 2014     © 2006-2014 M. E. Martin, All rights reserved