Thanks to the many positive replies that I received, I was able to successfully split my new alternator into two....and reassemble the pieces INSIDE the frame. Yes, I tried and tried to slip that unit through using the "Chinese puzzle" method which had worked for me through two previous upgrades. But the Karma wasn't with me on this job, so I punted.
The new alternator comes apart by unscrewing the two 8mm nuts that hold the frame halves together, unscrewing the two phillips-hex head screws that hold the brushes on in the rear, and then CAREFULLY removing the brushes from the rear of the shaft. The case halves must be pried apart, as there is a spring-loaded bearing on the inside that'll keep you guessing. You do not need to remove the voltage regulator, which is the heat-sinked component.
I found that even after slipping both halves through the frame members and reassembling the unit together again, (spin the shaft to ensure that you correctly assembled the brushes) I still did not have enough room to align the alternator with the base plate splines. I found that I needed to fully seat the new base plate against the engine bosses by using the old 12mm head base plate bolts. Tighten them alternately until the base plate is flush, then remove the bolts and slip the new alternator assembly onto the splines.
Editor's note: If you have a 1/4" drive socket about the same outer diameter as the slip rings on the alternator, you can avoid removing the brush holder. After splitting the alternator, retract the brushes and insert the socket to hold them retracted. Then when you reassemble the alternator, the socket will be pushed out by the rotor shaft.
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Last updated on January 30, 2014 © 2004-2014 M. E. Martin, all rights reserved.