2013 Alaska Ride
8/25/2013
Yesterday we met up with Matt and Chris, they came in a day early
and rode to Seward, nice weather and so we went for a beer downtown when they
got back.
This morning Nancy from the bike place picked us up, we checked out
the bikes, a bit ragged so lots of dents and scratches but we got the 3 KLRs my
BMW 650
and for Matt a F800GS. The weather was super so we left and lost
Radek after a mile, his tank went to reserve, he switched over and Paul went
back to get him
so we could go to get gas for all of us.
We rode
north to Wasilla then towards Denali, great views and weather. Did not stop for
Mexican at Qudoba Grill then later had some 7 miles of road work so a
bit of
a slow down.
We arrived at Carlo Creek Cabins north of Cantwell and had
dinner at a pizza place across the road on the deck, mountains and a setting sun
behind them. Some
fun stories and comments on the KLRs falling apart like
Chris's turn signal lense that dropped off and almost caused direct hit on
Matt! Wake up call at 130am
to see the Northern lights.
8/27/2013
Great view looking to the south.
Left Paxson to go back to Tangle River for gas. Now on the way to
Mcarthy.
8/29/2013
Denali, Paxson and Mcarthy/Kenicott
On sunday we left Carlo Creek Cabins with frost on the bikes and had breakfast
across the highway at The Perch restaurant, great reindeer sausage.
We then
rode up in chilly weather to Denali and the park entrance about 30 miles in
total. You get above the tree line and the valley is in front of you
and the
range with the white mountains in the back but stretching across the horizon.
The size of the valley and depth is imposing. As we left we stopped
in the
Mercantile shop and of course bumped into some Polish people this family from
Toronto. Chris myself and Matt saw a lady moose on the side as we
left the
park which quickly ran into the brush. A large animal for sure. The road back
down was just as great and when we came back to Cantwell we started
the 110
mile road on gravel across the park. This was a challenge and the 650 BMW wasnt
the best of the bunch as we later agreed. KLR is winning the test.
A full
test of the bikes will be done but when we topped off the KLRs took 3 gallons ,
my 650 took 4 and Matts F800 took 2.6. The first few miles were
very rutted
then a mixture of potholes and wash outs but we went on jarring as it was. The
mountain range to our left as we rode thru with the peaks in
the background.
Again great expanses, low shrubs and the valley to our left. We got to Tangle
River where we were told to get gas, we didnt and pavement started so were
were thrilled and 20 miles on came to Paxson and our new friends Audie and
Jenny who run a cabin place with some nice tents also by the river, a 6000 watt
solar panel and chickens. Cabins on the river and a 6000 watt solar system.
I tried some fly fishing with a rod I brought but the water was too swift. A
funny situation with Audie a bit of a eccentric guy and we were told there is
the only gas back at Tangel River so that would be the plan next day. We had
a improvised meal of burgers and canned soup and Chris got some beer from some
guy in town who didint have a store but sold beer. It worked and we went
to
sleep tired.
The next morning a great continental breakfast was made and we talked quite a
bit about the life they have and the relatives they have in West Seattle!
After oiling the chains and getting set we rode back to Tangle River 20 miles.
Lots of signs here that say gas but when you get there, no station or its
closed. In Tangle River they had one pump behind a shed, not a Chevron for sure.
We rode back tp Paxson then south to a service road to a ATT tower which
also had a view of the mountains and the pipeline. Cell service there was super
, 4 bars, we all checked in on our gizmos and got some radiation into our
bodies.
A generator was running also full bore there! We stopped at Jennies
Espresso and had a great salmon salad sandwich and she let us taste some of her
Copper river smoked salom, fantastic!. Also met a guy who explained how he
does inspections of the pipeline and service life. Pumping at 1/3 capacity now
and frost heaves of the supports is checked often.
We then headed south and got some gas at The Hub and further on to Chitina.
Before that was also some gas but we figured from our info Chitina would
have gas before the 60 mile gravel road to Mcarthy where there is no gas. Well
no gas in Chitina also! The lady at the hotel was very nice and called Tom
who sells gas at 5 bucks a gallon from a tank in his yard. We topped off and
headed towards Mccarthy on gravel to the Current Ridge cabins and Andy our
host. Its above the town and Kenicott which was a copper mine and is preserved
as a old town, bikes can drive across a foot bridge so thats where we went
to the saloon for dinner. No Mexican food but Paul had great Nachos at Panaorama
pizza back at Carlo Creek.
Later Andy showed up to do a trivia game but forgot his cards. He asked to
borrow a bike so Paul gave him his KLR keys and he took off, now it sqweaks as
we return to the cabins to get some sleep. This morning we got up and had
coffee in the cabins then head down to town about 4 miles on gravel and across
the footbridge. I made a incorrect turn to Mcarthy so we headed up to
Kenicott the mining town. It was closed in 1938 but was a huge copper mine with
70% purity above the glaciers of the valley. We had a outdoor breakfast and
then split up. Paul and Radek took a hike to the glacier about 30 minutes.
The rest of us decided to ride down to Mcarthy and rent a plane for a glacier
tour. It was 35 minutes on Wrangell Air and Don the pilot took us for a great
ride and showed us the 3 valleys and glaciers and mountains all around.
White mountain goats were dots on the cliffs but along the ridges. A great
experience
and Radek and Paul also has great pics of the glacier and cracks
in it.
We stopped at the local store with very few goods and Paul said we could get a
salmon from our host. We decided to put together a dinner at the cabins.
Beer got sold at 5 so Radek rode back down for the beer while i made the dinner.
We also got fresh veges and eggs. After grilling the salmon dinner we
told a
few tall stories and went to bed.
9/1/2013
Valdez and Anchorage
In the morning our ride took us from Mcarthy but the
road was wet with a morning rain so there was no dust, The ride was faster and i
traded bikes with
Paul. The KLRs have a better ride on a gravel road
especially with washboard and potholes, the seat is longer and the bike rode
better with the thumper
engine and large front wheel. We then crossed the
Copper river and later got gas near the main road. We turned south and headed
for Valdez. The
Worthington Glacier and mountains on both sides were always
in sight as we rode up Thompson Pass and down thru Keystone Canyon with
waterfalls from
the glaciers coming down on the sides of the road. The lodge
i reserved was the Robe Lake Lodge a great place above the lake with a quiet
setting. We had
roomates a german tourist, a Austrian youn couple and a
couple from Wisconsin. We chatted with them and especially with Jeff the guy
from Wisconsin
who trades bikes in like Chris. He also had a NC700 Honda and
a SV650 before that like Matt, what are the chances! We rode down to Valdez for
lunch
and walked around town a bit. A older gentleman named Paul with a
Finnish accent came up to us and we started talking bikes, He rode from
Singapore to
Finland in the 70s on a Yamaha 650 and had transmission trouble
in Beirut of all places. The city was not ruined back then and he found a
mechainic to
fix it. This ride included Pakistan, Afghanistan, Iran and
Turkey. He also was a goods supplier for the US Army from 1970 to 1975 in
Vietnam and had
quite the adventures to tell, He now lives in Whitehorse and
is retired. After saying goodbye to him We decided to buy some pizzas and beer
and take
those back to the lodge. Paul and Radek went with the german man to
see bears feasting on salmon near the bay. We then had dinner and spent time
with
our roomates.
In the morning we all decided to go back to the streams and saw some black bears
and fish runs as the salmon are spawning. The next stop was the Bridal
Veil
Falls and Worthington Glacier. After that we rode north thru Glenallyn and then
west towards Anchorage. On the way a shock as i was doing 75 and
Paul told
me on the radio he was being passed by a RV and soon enough he passed me at
85-90, he was yelling you are being passed by a RV .....noooooo,
go
faster........ It was a first for us but then the next day Paul passed a pickup
with a camper then he proceeded to haul up the pass also at 80. Crazy
campers here in Alaska! We passed the state fair in Palmer and made it to our
hotel by the evening.
The next day Chris and Matt returned thier bikes and flew home the rest of us
rode down thru Girdwood and down to Seward. It rained part of the way
so we
got a bit wet and same on the way back but still a nice ride of the bay then
mountain passes. In Seward we had lunch at the Seward Brewing Company
pub
and returned back wet and a bit cold. We met Nancy and Keith and returned our
bikes at the shop. They rent 25 bikes, 4 each of KLRs, G 650s, F 650S,
R1200
GS , R1200 GS Adventures and Triumph Tiger 800's. The Triumphs he says he likes
the most and riders also in general. Now we have new respect for
the KLRs
but some carb and gearing modifications would make it a bit better but no issues
with it at all. Matt likes the F800 a lot and was impressed. The
next
morning we packed and bumped into Wojtek a hunter from Sacramento who concluded
after Radek offered him some left over beers we were Polish.
Headed to the
airport to fly home. The experience in Alaska was great and i suggest more
riders do it on the bike of thier choosing keeping in mind the
roads and
some rough conditions on the gravel ones. We rode 1450 miles, about 230 miles
on dirt! I didint have time for lots of fly fishing but i was glad
to try in
Paxson and enjoy the time.
Best Lodge Robe Lake Lodge, Valdez
Best dinner Panormama Pizza, Cantwell
Best Lunch Jennies Espresso 15
miles south of Glenallyn
Best breakfast The Perch, Cantwell
Best gas
Tom and Andy from thier personal home tanks in Chitina and Mcarthy, Thanks!
Worst experience Being passed by a crazy RV driver
Best Bike KLR
Chris' Pics